The drone photos of the Vaavu shipwreck and those iconic underwater shots with nurse sharks had us hooked. We just had to experience it ourselves. While the wreck was the big attraction, Fulidhoo, a nearby island, seemed like the ideal place to stay. Affordable and promising, it was our gateway to this Maldives adventure.
The boat ride from Hulhumale’s airport was quite an experience for those with a sensitive stomach. It shook and swayed, but thinking about what awaited us on the island kept the excitement alive.
As we approached Fulidhoo, the first face we saw was Fazlan’s. He was right there at the pier, ready to show us around and lend a helping hand whenever we needed it. His easy-going and friendly nature made him instantly likable. With him as our guide, we walked around, getting to know this small island where just about 150 people live.
Then came the cats. They’re everywhere! And if you’re a cat person like us, you’ll love it. They would just stroll around, some plump and others on the leaner side, searching for their next snack. One cat, Tina, was extra special. Every time we sat down to write down our experiences, he’d hop onto our laps, making himself comfortable.
A little heads up for those visiting during the rainy season: mosquitoes. They’re tiny, they’re sneaky, and they love to bite. But don’t worry too much – the itch doesn’t last long.
We had big plans for our first day, including a boat trip to a sandbank we heard was great for photos. But sometimes, nature has its own plans. With the weather acting up, we stuck to the island. And it wasn’t a letdown. Apart from the cats, we saw birds we recognized from back home in Berlin, like pigeons, crows and herons. But we also spotted little stints running up and down the beach, sand crabs digging away, and even some flying foxes making dramatic exits from the breadfruit trees.
So, even without the boat trip, Fulidhoo was showing us that every day here could be a little adventure if you are able to cherish the small things in life. That evening, we enjoyed some delicious seafood. The sauce it came with had a teriyaki vibe, likely a mix of soy and sweet chili.
But the next day? A total washout. Rain poured, and our tours got canceled again. We’d been looking forward to the sandbank, snorkeling with nurse sharks, checking out the Vaavu shipwreck, and maybe even spotting some dolphins. But with this weather, none of that was happening. We kept a close eye on the forecast, hoping for a break.
By afternoon, things started looking up. Our hotel host had been in touch with the boat captain, Ahmad, and it seemed we might get our tour after all. Before heading out, we took a quick detour to the pier. This was one of Fulidhoo’s highlights. The locals fish here and feed the marine life their leftovers.
Jumping into the water was like entering another world. So many fish, and then out of nowhere, rays and turtles would appear. A few tour groups came by to check out the spot, but once they left, we got to hang out with the locals for a moment. They were friendly and had a great sense of humor, making the whole experience even better.
After the exhilarating experience with the rays, things picked up pace. Captain Ahmad signaled for us to be quick, and with the island’s compact size, that wasn’t hard. We could cross Fulidhoo in a brisk five-minute walk. We grabbed our gear and set off. Though the sea was choppy, we were in the safe confines of the atoll, shielded by the outer sandbanks. Venturing into the open sea would’ve been a bad idea.
First stop: the nurse shark point. We were told there was a “100% guarantee” of seeing these majestic creatures. The reason? They’re lured by old fish heads. Diving in, the sheer size of the sharks was a revelation. They looked even bigger underwater. And when they would brush past us, its rough skin a reminder of its wild nature.
While nurse sharks are generally non-aggressive, swimming with them as they feed isn’t without risks. It’s easy to forget you’re swimming with wild animals, especially when they seem so calm. A stray hand could easily be mistaken for food, and no one wants a shark bite (Yes, nurse sharks do have teeth!), even if it’s unintentional.
However, the skies were turning. Dark clouds loomed, hinting at another downpour. Sensing urgency, Captain Ahmad gestured for us to return to the boat. The Vaavu shipwreck was waiting, and we were eager to see it.
Navigating towards the wreck, the vibrant coral reefs and mesmerizing blue holes that passed beneath us were sights to behold. The spectrum of colors in the water was like a kitchy postcard come to life. Soon, the silhouette of the wreck emerged, a haunting yet fascinating sight.
Diving down, the wreck’s beauty was undeniable. Yet there was an underlying somberness. This once majestic vessel now lay dormant underwater, but nature had found a way to reclaim it. Coral and anemones clung to its structure, and it teemed with lively, colorful fish darting in and out.
Maxi and I attempted the quintessential Instagram photo with the bike on the ship’s wheelhouse. But, free diving isn’t my forte, and I struggled to get the perfect shot.
However, the real magic happened above the water. Launching our drone, we captured breathtaking aerial views of the blue holes, the reefs, and the shipwreck. The vessel, we learned, was supposedly the “Aslu Break,” an Indonesian ship that had run aground years ago without anyone on board.
That’s the Maldives! On our way to the Sandbank, which was our next destination, our captain told us that he saw dolphins. We immediately rushed to the front of the boat, and there they were, jumping and playing right in front of us. It was truly amazing to see them in the open ocean. Unfortunately, we couldn’t get in the water because the ocean was quite rough, and it wasn’t safe due to the strong currents. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful experience! Since we were moving slowly, we managed to submerge the GoPro briefly and capture a few shots of them underwater.
As the horizon grew dark and foreboding, and with the wind giving the sea a rough stir, we thought it would be best to head back to Fulidhoo. But a detour to the sandbank, now deserted, was too tempting to resist. We wanted to capture its desolate beauty against the dramatic backdrop of stormy clouds.
We promised Ahmad we would spend just 10 minutes, but the place held us captive for double that time. With dark clouds speeding towards us, we hastily made our way back to the boat.
The journey back was tense. As Fulidhoo came into view, the sea grew temperamental. Rain began to pour, and soon we were caught in a full-blown thunderstorm. With every wave that hit, we were drenched further. Ahmad’s expertise as a captain was evident, skillfully navigating through the tumultuous waters.
When we finally reached safety, Fazlan shared a piece of news that left us in awe: Ahmad had braved the stormy sea, swimming back to land after anchoring the boat in deeper waters near the pier. We were beyond grateful for his dedication and skill.
If you’re visiting the Maldives during the rainy season (May to November), consider adding a few extra days to your trip. Boat excursions can be unpredictable with the weather, and safety always comes first. Having those additional days can ensure you don’t miss out on any planned adventures.
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olaf
21. September 2023 at 01:21sehr schoen geschrieben und auch ganz tolle photos. Man fuehlt sich richtig mitgenommen von euch.
Gerrit
21. September 2023 at 14:10Danke Dir ganz herzlich, das freut uns sehr! 😘